It's simple—to boost your profit. Sell it yourself, and you get a higher value out of your car.

Depending on the age and condition of your car, you can pocket an extra Rs 5,000 to Rs 10,000 or more. If you have a late-model vehicle, you stand to make much more. Just think of it as cutting the middle man out. If you trade your car in, the dealer has to pay to clean it, advertise it and sell it while making a comfortable profit. Your lower trade-in reflects that.

Besides, with today's online resources, selling your car is easier than ever. Find out all you need to know to put your car up for sale, and then list it at a less expensive price than traditional printed classified listings. Plus, you reach more buyers in your area—and across the country.

As the price of new cars has climbed, used vehicles have become more popular than ever. They're also more expensive than ever, inflation aside. But thanks to engineering strides, vehicles have never been more durable and maintenance-free, and previously owned vehicles are no less a value.

Because new vehicles lose such a high percentage of their value as soon as they're driven off a dealer's lot, used cars have always appealed to practical buyers. But there's always a concern about buying someone else's problems. With the introduction of certified pre-owned vehicle programs, the advantages of buying a new car seem to be dwindling. If it's important to you to drive a brand-new car, dive into our Buying Guides, sharpen your negotiating skills in Negotiating With Car Dealers and get ready to inhale that inimitable new-car smell.

However, if value is your goal, explore this used-car resource, learn how not to get burned and then turn the key on our Used Cars for Sale listings.

As a first step, you might consider test-driving some sellers. Are we serious? You bet. Car shopping taxes your energy and time. If you hire a mechanic to inspect a prospective purchase — as gaddibazaar.com strongly recommends — it can also tax your savings. With the number of used cars on the market, you'd best narrow your search and concentrate only on the ones with the most promise. Two great methods are questioning the seller and inspecting the car before the test drive — ruling out sellers that aren't worth a visit as well as cars that aren't worth a professional inspection.

Questions to Ask the Seller

Another way to describe this process would be "test-driving the seller." By that we mean two things:

• Finding out as much as possible about an advertised vehicle before you go to see it.
• Getting an early read on the seller, whether it's an individual or a dealership, to try and reduce your chances of buying someone else's problems.

To test-drive a seller, you'll need to answer the following questions. If you're working off a classified advertisement, call the phone number listed and — rather than ask if you can see the vehicle — ask these questions.

This interview accomplishes a few things. It helps you rule out some vehicles without leaving your home, and it gives you perspective on the vehicle before you see it and perhaps get distracted by some overwhelmingly positive or negative aspect of it (or of the seller!). It also gives you a record of the seller's responses. If you do go to see and test-drive the vehicle and something conflicts with what the seller told you on the phone, it's a pretty good sign that you don't want to do business with that person.

Note that most of these questions are legitimate for used-car dealers as well. The more documentation they have on the car, the better. You can ask for a phone number of the previous owner if the dealer doesn't have many details. How the dealer reacts to this request may be of interest to you.

1. Why are you selling the vehicle?
   If the seller answers, "Because it's a piece of junk!" then the interview may be over (unless junk is your thing). But the seller may say something else so odd, or say it so nervously, that you can tell he or she thinks it's a piece of junk and are trying not to say so, or doesn't have the good sense to make up an alternate reason ahead of time. If the person doesn't have the sense to do that, he or she probably doesn't have the sense to keep oil in the engine or to roll up the windows when it rained.
2. How many miles are on the odometer?
   A used vehicle's mileage helps determine its value, which will be important during negotiations. You can research values in our Kelley Blue Book pricing tool before meeting the seller. Also, if you eventually see the vehicle, and the odometer reads significantly higher (or appears to be stuck on a number when you drive it), it's time to leave.
3. What's the condition of the vehicle?
   Note that the wording of the question is neutral. See how the seller responds. You know what kind of problems you can live with and how they affect your offer. Be sure to follow up by specifically asking about both its structural and mechanical condition in case the seller didn't address either one. Again, if you see the vehicle and find that the seller could have been more honest about its condition, take it as a sign.
4. Does it have any special features?
   How a vehicle is equipped also affects its value. Are the seats upholstered in leather? Is there a CD player? Is it equipped with air conditioning?
5. Are you the original owner?
   In general, single-owner vehicles are preferable. This also helps with the next few questions. If the seller isn't the original owner, he or she might not have the answers. The more you know about the vehicle, the higher your comfort level will be.
6. Was the vehicle ever involved in an accident?
   A crucial question. Vehicles that have been in collisions are prone to more problems and are worth less. If the seller says "no" to this question on the phone and then you determine that it's been damaged and repaired, you'll know that the seller is untrustworthy or, at best, not as familiar with the vehicle as you would hope. Whatever their reason for getting it wrong, it may be time to walk away.
7. Do you have service records for it?
   An owner who was meticulous enough to keep service records was probably meticulous enough to take good care of the vehicle — and fortunately, you can find out.
8. How much are you asking for it?
   Again, the wording is important. It suggests that the price the seller quotes should be negotiable.
9. Take along the Used-Car-Buyer's Checklist.
   This handy list includes things you want to know but might forget to ask.

Much of the test drive should happen before you actually drive. It's tempting to hop in the car and take it for a spin, but it's wise to inspect the car carefully before — and after — the drive, to determine its condition and attempt to confirm the answers the seller gave you before you arrived for the test drive.

Remember that a used car's current condition and the way it was cared for are at least as important as the style, features and fit when it was new. When you're done with this test drive, you may not know for sure if the car is mechanically sound without the help of a mechanic, but you may know if it's definitely not — and be able to rule it out without paying a professional up to $100 to tell you so. You're also looking for smaller problems that may help you reduce the price.

Wear clothing you don't mind getting dirty, bring a flashlight, a flat refrigerator magnet and always — always — evaluate cars in daylight.

Rust Can't Hide

Always inspect used cars in daylight. "Rust bubbles" (A), which progress to full-scale rust spots and holes (B), are difficult to see at night.

Despite advances in manufacturing, rust remains one of a vehicle's greatest enemies — one you should be able to detect on your own. Rust is generally more damaging to a car's appearance and value than to its ability to get you where you need to go. It's expensive to repair well and nearly impossible to reverse.

Start at the Bottom

Start by looking at the car's undercarriage (underside). Use your flashlight to inspect the floor pans (the metal that forms the floors) and frame rails (the structural members that run around the perimeter of the car's underbelly). Look for rust. Also look for marked differences in the condition of different sections. One pristine or freshly painted section in an otherwise moderately rusty car is a reliable indication that part of the vehicle was repaired. Did the seller disclose any accidents in the car's history?

While you're down there, look up into the wheel wells for rust. Take note if the car seems to be dripping anything (check out the driveway and/or the garage floor if you can) and look for rust and signs of wear on the muffler and exhaust pipes.

The bottom of this door has rusted away, but the damage is barely visible from the outside or as viewed from the seat or standing.

The Tires

Don't get up yet. The tires tell a lot about a car and how it's been driven and cared for. You're looking for several signs:

Overall wear: Do the tires have enough tread on them to be safe, or are they bald or close enough to it that you'll have to replace them soon? Look for tread-wear indicators, which become visible when the tread has worn down far enough that the tires need to be replaced. The indicators are ridges that run across the surface of the tires, perpendicular to the sidewall. Each tire has six of these indicators evenly spaced around its circumference. The location of each is marked by an arrowhead found on the sidewall, typically at the base of the tread.

Viewed from the side, the top of Lincoln's head disappears into the tread, indicating that this tire still has some life left.

If you're not sure about the wear indicators, try the penny test: Hold a penny, head side toward you, and insert the top of Lincoln's head into the tire tread until the coin's edge rests in the groove. If you can see the top of Honest Abe's noggin from the side of the tire, the tread is probably worn too far. If the top of Lincoln's head disappears into the groove, your tire has some life left. It's simple: If you see Abe's head, there's not enough tread. Repeat with all the tires.

Uneven wear: Have all the tires worn evenly from one side-wall to the other? Try the penny test to verify a difference. Tires should wear evenly. If they don't, it's likely the car has been in an accident and/or is out of alignment.

This does not compute: Does the car have low mileage but worn-out tires? Why the contrast? Maybe the odometer is not accurate. It's not a crime to put used tires on a car, but you should try and find out what's behind the disparity. The same is true if the car has low mileage yet brand-new tires. Perhaps the owner decided to upgrade, had a blowout or simply replaced all four tires. It can't hurt to ask about anything that just doesn't make sense.

The Walkaround

Stroll around the car looking for rust, dents and dings. Check how well the hood, doors and trunk/hatch lid meet the body. All should close and seal well and rest on the same plane. Try all the doors and their windows and locks. (With a convertible, try the doors and windows with the roof up and down.) Some of these tests may seem unnecessary, but every little problem could become your problem, and every shortcoming can be used to drive the price down.

Whip out that refrigerator magnet (the flexible kind that looks like a business card is best). Place it on at least one point of every major panel of the car's exterior. It should stick. If it doesn't, it means one of three things:

1. The panel has been repaired with Bondo, fiberglass or some other nonmetallic dent filler.
2. The car is made of fiberglass, as is the Chevy Corvette.
3. That particular panel is nonmetallic or nonmagnetic (aluminum). In the case of 2 and 3, chances are that the whole car, or like panels, will also not support the magnet. Whole panels — let alone whole cars — are seldom rebuilt with body filler, so you'll know you're onto something if the magnet doesn't stick to part of a panel, or one of four doors. Be aware that bumpers and grilles tend to be molded from plastic nowadays. WARNING: Be sure only to use a pliable magnet, or place a piece of paper or cloth between a metal or ceramic magnet and the car; you don't want to scratch the paint.

The Trunk or Hatch

Check out the trunk (or "hatch," if the car is a hatchback, sport utility vehicle or minivan). If possible, lift the carpet and check for rust. Will the cargo capacity meet your needs? Is the spare tire in its proper location, full of air and in good condition? Pay attention to how simple or difficult it is to lift the trunk or hatch lid. Does it stay up or fall on your head? Will you be likely to hit your head on it even if it stays up?

The Engine Compartment

You don't have to be a mechanic to learn something about a car — and its owner — by inspecting the engine compartment. Pop the hood and perform these checks:

• Take a good look at the overall condition. Is the engine clean, or are there signs of leaking oil or other fluids? Take a mental picture, because you'll want to look again after you drive it.
• Check for rust, particularly on the shock or strut towers, the points at the corners near the windshield to which the front suspension is anchored.
• Do you see any sign of fresh paint (or paint that is clearly newer than elsewhere on the car)? Have any of the rubber bumpers been painted over? These can be signs of an accident or simply a re-paint job.
• With the engine turned off, check the underside of the fan belts (the surface that comes in contact with the pulleys) for cracks and obvious wear.
• Pull the oil dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, and reinsert and remove it. Is the level correct? Is the oil dark and dirty? Both are signs that the car isn't getting the care it deserves. You can also look for beads of water on the oil clinging to the dipstick, which could reflect a costly head gasket problem.
• If the engine hasn't run for hours and the radiator is cool to the touch, remove the radiator cap carefully and slowly using a rag (the car's coolant system is pressurized and can spray, causing injury; open it only if you know it's cool). Is there a layer of oily film floating on the top? Is the coolant clean and green or rust-colored? A layer of film is caused by oil, which reflects a costly head gasket problem. A rusty color is caused by, you guessed it, rust, which reflects that the vehicle has been neglected.

Start It

Go ahead and start the car. Does it start easily? Run smoothly? Don't hesitate to test all the lights and signals, inside the car and outside. Same thing for the wipers, heat and air conditioning, and cigarette lighter.